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A mud-built, dirty little place is Khamiseyeh, watered by a small and evil looking canal from the Euphrates which runs into the town up to the walled square where the caravans lodge when they come up from Jebel Shamman. I drove straight into our camp, picked up General Tidswell, who is in command, and made him take me round the town. And there we met the Sheikh of Khamiseyeh, who is a friend of mine and on his pressing invitation went to his house and drank a cup of tea. He had a guest, Sheikh Hamud of the Dhafir, one of our friendly Beduin, and we sat for a while listening to the latest desert news, which I translated for the General.

  • While we bargained the women and children wandered round and ate grass, just like goats.
  • I have been following the old road which I came out to find and am well content to have my anticipations justified.
  • I put on a riding skirt and a pair of india rubber top boots–which I had fortunately procured from India–and stagger through the swamp for half-an-hour after tea and it’s all one can do.
  • Meantime I’ve taken to riding again which is very delicious.
  • There came a lot of Christians to see me; there are many in this country; they come to escape from the oppression of the Turks.

But our ride to-day was not without excitements. The first was a river which the rain had filled very full and which was running with some speed. The water came well up on to the horses’ girths and the donkeys almost disappeared.

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A box has just arrived from Marte, through T. Cook & Sons-it ought to have contained a black satin gown, but it has been opened and the gown has been abstracted. All that was left was a small cardboard box inside, containing the little black satin coat Marte sent with the gown, some net, and a gold flower. These, by reason of their being in the small box, the thief couldn’t get out, for he only opened a part of the nailed-down lid, and made a small hole in the interior cardboard lining, through which he pulled the gown. I hope Marte insured it so that Cook will have to pay-but that thought does not console me much at this moment!

  • Or she would lead a climbing expedition on to the top of the greenhouse, where Maurice was certain to go through the panes while Gertrude clambered down outside them in safety to the bottom.
  • Today I lunched with Sir Edward and Mr. Haldane–Willie told Sir E. I was here and he quickly asked me to lunch.
  • They are mostly shaped like horseshoes and you wander along until you come to the end and then drop down into low ground, only to climb up anew.
  • During breakfast she hissed at Kitty Scott.

However, so far I have run my own show quite satisfactorily and it amuses me to be tongue and voice for myself, as I have been these days. But I am tired, and being anxious to get through and be done with travel, we are making long marches, 9 and 10 hours. Oh, but they are long hours, day after day in the open wilderness!

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He did not die there though he was wounded twice. A long and tedious ride to-day, across the foothills and the plain to Hamah. I have just had a struggle with the authorities, who insisted on giving me eight watchmen for the night. I refused to have more than two, which is all one ever has anywhere, and the rest have gone away. It is a perfect pest having so many, for in the first place they talk all night and in the second one has to tip them all. I arrived yesterday afternoon, alighted at the most fascinating hotel, with a courtyard.

The muleteers and I listened breathless and Mikhail cooked our dinner, and put in an occasional comment. He is a most cheerful travelling companion is Mikhail. Namoud gave us a warning which I will tell you as it is an indication of the country we are travelling in. Between the Beni Sakhrs and the Druzes there is always blood.

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I feel much better after four days here and I am beginning to drop into the East. “Oh lady,” he said, “before my beard was grown I saw it here.” It said much for the temper of my camp that when my men came in and I told them we had had all our trouble for nothing, no one was angry. So we camped-it was half past three-and I can see that the Lakhmid castles, if any of then, still exist, are not for me.

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